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History Of Surfing, by Nat Young
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The History of Surfing by world champion surfer Nat Young shares the history, stories, and inside expertise gathered in his years of deep involvement with the sport of surfing. The History of Surfing covers the full gamut, including the history, professionalism, surfboard evolution, professional surfers, the Hawaiian Islands, kneeboards, wave skills, windsurfers, and the future of surfing. Exclusive rare color photos covering surfing's exciting past and present bring to life one of the most exciting and stunningly beautiful sports in the world.
This book is the result of a lifetime of involvement with surfing and a deep interest in its history, and includes Nat's discussions with the greats of the sport, from Duke Kahanmoku to contemporary stars like Kelly Slater and Lisa Anderson.
Illustrating the book are rare reproductions of early Hawaiian and Australian surfing, along with the work of the world's best surf photographers, including portraits of some of the remarkable figures that the sport has seen.
Chapters include:
Surfing Roots
Hawaiian Revival
Heyday of the Hollow Board
Evolution of the Modern Board
The Age of Surf Clubs
Big Waves, Big Boards
The Oz Connection
World Championships
Pocket Rockets and Twin Fins
The Birth of Professionalism
Surfer Girls
Surfing with a Sail
- Sales Rank: #16251457 in Books
- Brand: Brand: Body Press
- Published on: 1987
- Released on: 1987-11-01
- Original language: English
- Number of items: 1
- Dimensions: 5.00" h x 1.00" w x 7.00" l,
- Binding: Paperback
- 200 pages
- Used Book in Good Condition
Most helpful customer reviews
0 of 0 people found the following review helpful.
A Great Overview
By K. E. Larson
The photos in this book are really wonderful and tell the story. The commentary isn't too bad, either! A great coffeetable book or gift for anyone who loves the sport.
0 of 0 people found the following review helpful.
Great History & Photography
By B. Falk
Surfing is one of the most exciting and stunningly beautiful sports in the world. The modern surfer on his small plastic board is the product of a fascinating history of development. Nat Young, one of the world's great surfers, has produced an illustrated history of the sport that is the most definitive and authoritative ever published.
This book is the result of a lifetime of involvement with surfing and a deep interest in its history. Nat has had discussions with the greats of the sport, from Duke Kahanmoku through to contemporary stars like Kelly Slater and Lisa Anderson. He tells for the first time the real story behind the remarkable development of what we see as modern surfing in California in the '40s.
Illustrating the book are rare reproductions of early Hawaiian and Australian surfing that have never before been published, and the work of the world's best surf photographers, gathered together in a volume for the first time; a feat remarkable even for a surfer of the authority of Nat Young.
He traces the paths of the development of the sport from the Hawaiian kings through to the cur-rent crop of professionals. Along the way are portraits of some of the remarkable figures that the sport has seen - and it is a field not short of its eccentric stars.
4 of 4 people found the following review helpful.
Cool for waxheads and non-surfers alike
By Roger McEvilly (the guilty bystander)
Surfing is of course a great pastime, an escapist form of recreation, an artistic expression of the soul, a highly challenging sport for young and old, and... a culture. This book suits both surfers, historians and beachgoers alike.
The history of the sport is curious. The polynesians engaged in it, as described by Captain Cook in 1777. "I could not help concluding that this man felt the most supreme pleasure while he was driven on so fast and so smoothly by the sea." Nat Young the author and former world surfing champion, traces its roots to the modern age of professionalism, commercialism, hippie cultures, with notes on board development, big wave riding, surf safaris, and so on. The book is becoming a little dated in this respect, as there is no toe-ins yet, amongst other things. But there may in fact be a revised edition which has these things-look around.
For the non-surfer there is some great historical pictures and stories. For the thinking surfer there is all this and some great waves. The only drawback for me, is that Nat Young is not a great writer, or narrator. The movie by the same name bears this out. Still, he is original if nothing else, and conveys the nature of surfing very well.
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